Updated 10/26/2026 · AZ Tech Appliance Repair, Westmont, IL
Most common causes
- Clogged drain pump filter on front-loaders: coins, hair ties, socks, bra wires.
- Kinked or blocked drain hose, often after the washer was pushed back.
- Clogged standpipe or house drain. Water backs up out of the pipe behind the washer.
- Failed drain pump. You hear a hum but no water moves, or no sound at all.
- Lid switch or door lock on some models: the washer won't drain or spin if it doesn't sense the door closed.
How to clean the pump filter
- Unplug the washer.
- Open the small door at the bottom front.
- Put down towels and a shallow pan. Pull the small drain hose, if there is one, and let water out slowly.
- Turn the filter counter-clockwise and remove it. Clean out debris.
- Put it back tightly, then run a drain and spin cycle.
Top-loaders usually have no user filter. Check the hose, then call.
Error codes that mean drain
LG: OE. Whirlpool and Maytag front-loaders: F9 E1. Codes differ by model; see the washer error code table.
When to call a technician
Call if the filter is clean and the hose is clear but water still stays, if the pump hums without draining, or if water leaks under the washer. Don't force a locked door open with water inside.
More on washer repair, including error codes by brand.
Basement laundry: check the drain, not just the washer
Most washers here drain into a standpipe or a laundry tub in the basement. If the washer pumps out but water backs up out of the standpipe or the tub, the washer is fine: the house drain is slow. A laundry tub with its own pump adds another failure point. We check the drain path first, so you do not pay for a washer part the machine does not need.